Think Peace (2109 bytes)
asiarecipe.com logo (18125 bytes)
India
Indian flag (10295 bytes)
Current time in India

Country Information

India shares borders to the northwest with Pakistan, to the north with China, Nepal and Bhutan, and to the east with Bangladesh and Myanmar. To the west lies the Arabian Sea, to the east the Bay of Bengal and to the south the Indian Ocean. Sri Lanka lies off the southeast coast, and the Maldives off the southwest coast. India has a rich history and the palaces, temples and great cities of its ancient cultures cannot fail to grip the imagination. In the spring particularly, the big cities come alive with concerts, plays, parties and exhibitions. Among the most spectacular hill stations (mountain resorts which make ideal destinations in summer) are Shimla (once the Imperial summer capital), Mussoorie, Ranikhet and Nainital (within reach of Delhi), and West Bengal's magnificent resort, Darjeeling, which offers a breathtaking view of the whole Kanchenjunga range.

The unforgettable aroma of India is not just the heavy scent of jasmine and roses on the warm air. It is also the fragrance of spices so important to Indian cooking especially to preparing curry. The word 'curry' is an English derivative of kari, meaning spice sauce, but curry does not, in India, come as a powder. It is the subtle and delicate blending of spices such as turmeric, cardamom, ginger, coriander, nutmeg and poppy seed.

India has generally little nightlife as the term is understood in the West, although in major cities a few Western-style shows, clubs and discos are being developed. In most places the main attraction will be cultural shows featuring performances of Indian dance and music. The Indian film industry is the largest in the world, now producing three times as many full-length feature films as the USA.

Quick Facts
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Facts for the Traveller
Warning

Attractions
Off the Beaten Path
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Money & Costs

Quick Facts

AREA: 3,287,263 sq km (1,269,219 sq miles).

POPULATION: 913,200,000 (official estimate 1996).

POPULATION DENSITY: 277.8 per sq km.

CAPITAL: New Delhi. Population: 7,206,704 (1991).

LANGUAGE: The official language is Hindi which is spoken by about 30% of the population, English is also often used for official or commercial purposes. In addition, 17 regional languages are recognised by the Constitution. These include Punjabi, Bengali, Gujerati and Oriya which are widely used in the north and Tamil and Telegu which are common in the south. Other regional languages are Marathi, Kannada and Malayalam. The Muslim population largely speak Urdu.

RELIGION: 80% Hindu, 11% Muslim with Sikh, Christian and Buddhist minorities.

TIME: GMT + 5.30.

ELECTRICITY: Usually 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Some areas have a DC supply. Plugs used are of the round 2- and 3-pin type.

COMMUNICATIONS: Telephone: IDD service is widely available all over India. Otherwise calls must be placed through the international operator. Country code: 91. Outgoing international code: 00. Fax: Facilities are available in most 5-star hotels and some offices of the Overseas Communication Service in large cities. Telegram: International 24-hour service from large hotels and telegraphic offices in major cities. Post: Airmail service to Western Europe takes up to a week. Stamps are often sold at hotels. Press: There are numerous local dailies published in several languages. Many newspapers are in English, the most important include The Times of India, Indian Express, The Hindu, Hindustan Times, The Deccan Herald, The Economic Times, The Telegraph and The Statesman.

Environment

India shares borders to the northwest with Pakistan, to the north with China, Nepal and Bhutan, and to the east with Bangladesh and Myanmar. To the west lies the Arabian Sea, to the east the Bay of Bengal and to the south the Indian Ocean. Sri Lanka lies off the southeast coast, and the Maldives off the southwest coast. The far northeastern states and territories are all but separated from the rest of India by Bangladesh as it extends northwards from the Bay of Bengal towards Bhutan. The Himalayan mountain range to the north and the Indus River (west) and Ganga River (east) form a physical barrier between India and the rest of Asia. The country can be divided into five regions: Western, Central, Northern (including Kashmir and Rajasthan), Eastern and Southern.

History

Indian civilisation can be traced back to at least 2500BC, although the ancient civilisations did not encompass the whole of India as it is known today. The first known civilisation settled along the Indus River in what is now Pakistan. This, however, collapsed around 1500BC. Between 521 and 486BC, under Darius, this area became part of the Persian Empire. Alexander the Great arrived in India in 326BC, but did not venture beyond the boundaries of the Persian Empire, which only extended as far as the Indus. India's two great religions, Hinduism and Buddhism, had already been developed. Various dynasties followed, the last of which was the Gupta Empire (AD319-606). The invasion of the White Huns brought all this to an end, and northern India became fragmented, not being unified again until the coming of the Muslims. During this time the south had been trading by sea with the Romans and Egyptians.

The Muslims made their presence felt after AD600, but this was mainly in the north. Under the Moguls (1526-1738), who swept over the mountain passes from Central Asia, the Hindus were conquered but, with some exceptions, were not forcibly converted.

By the time of the British conquest, at the end of the 18th century, the Mogul Empire was already in severe decline. Under the British, the many and varied provinces of India were, for the first time, administered by a single, albeit alien, power. The indigenous campaign for independence began with the formation of the Indian National Congress in 1885, but it made little progress until after the end of the First World War, when Mahatma Gandhi led the Congress and began the policy of non-cooperation with the British. The colonial authorities were gradually persuaded that reforms were needed, but the Congress itself was split on a key issue: the Muslims, under Mohammed Ali Jinnah, claimed a separate homeland in provinces such as the Punjab and East Bengal, where they formed a majority of the population, but Gandhi wanted India to be a unified and secular state. Jinnah's view, supported by the last Governor-General, Earl Mountbatten, prevailed and in August 1947 the independent states of India and Pakistan came into being. Since this time India has been a democratic republic, the first proper elections taking place in 1951, and Hindu law has been modernised to a great extent, eradicating many of the old inequalities. Nonetheless, the caste system, which assigns an individual to a particular stratum in society from birth, has proved resilient to reform.

India has also developed a broadly secular policy and has for the most part been free of violent religious strife (although there are dangerous signs that this may be changing). Indian politics have been dominated since independence by the Nehru family: Jawaharlal ('Pandit') was the first Prime Minister; then came his daughter, Indira Gandhi (one of the modern world's first woman leaders); and finally her son, Rajiv. Their political power was exercised through the Congress Party, which has governed India for most of the time since independence. The party has been known as Congress (I) following a split in the original Congress during the 1970s. Mrs Gandhi held office in several different Parliaments until October 1984, when she was assassinated by Sikh members of her personal bodyguard in retaliation for the storming of the Golden Temple in Amritsar. Rajiv Gandhi took over immediately afterwards.

Successive governments during the 1980s have been dogged by the various manifestations of civil strife and a series of challenging foreign policy problems. Of these the most taxing was the Indian military intervention in the intercommunal conflict in Sri Lanka, where, in 1987, the Indian army became involved in a peace-keeping capacity for two years. This role as regional 'policeman' was also exemplified in late 1988 when Indian forces were instrumental in overthrowing an abortive invasion attempt in the Maldives. It is relations with Pakistan, however, that will always tend to dominate India's foreign policy agenda. Relations between the two have varied between chilly and open warfare. The division of East and West Pakistan in 1971 into the contemporary states of Bangladesh and Pakistan followed decisive military and political intervention by the Indian government. Since then, the border dispute between India and Pakistan in the Kashmir region which dates back to the division between the two countries at independence has occasionally erupted into armed conflict.

The 1990s have been a particularly tense period in this region, as opposition movements, whose activities India regularly blames on Pakistan, have waged a sustained campaign of political violence against the security forces. Autonomy movements in several parts of India, including Uttar Pradesh and Assam, have also caused occasional headaches for the government, but it was the conflict in Sri Lanka which lay behind the assassination of the last of the Nehru dynasty, Rajiv Ghandi, to have held power. His death in 1991 brought the veteran politician and former foreign minister, P V Narasimha Rao, to the leadership of Congress (I). The election Rajiv was working on was held a few weeks later and the Congress (I) Party came out with just enough seats to form a government. While the Rao government has concentrated much of its effort on reform of the economy, it has not neglected its traditional activist foreign policy. A trade-based dispute with Nepal inherited by Rao has been settled, but bilateral problems with Pakistan, as mentioned above, have proved less tractable. Delhi has made efforts to improve relations with Beijing and achieved some progress with the signing of a cross-border trade agreement and acceptance if not formal agreement of the disputed border between the two countries. Of greatest concern to India are developments in the former Soviet Union, with which India enjoyed very close relations; although there is no common border, instability in central Asia is liable to spill southwards.

Relations with the United States, by contrast, have benefited from the cooling between Washington and Islamabad (see Pakistan) and from improved bilateral ties in their own right. During 1995 and early 1996, Indian politics have been riven by a major corruption scandal which has claimed several ministers, senior politicians and officials as casualties.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$1,250 billion
GDP per head: US$350
Annual growth: 5%
Inflation: 5%
Major industries: Agriculture (rice, wheat, tea, rubber), textiles, coal, steel
Major trading partners: CIS, US, Japan and EU

Culture

For almost all Indians the family is the most important social unit. There is a strong preference for extended families, consisting of two or more married couples (often of more than a single generation), who share finances and a common kitchen. Marriage is virtually universal, and divorce rare. Almost all marriages are arranged by family elders on the basis of caste, degree of consanguinity, economic status, education (if any), and astrology. Brides traditionally move to their husband's village. Among the elite, however, nonarranged "love marriages" are increasingly common.

Within families, there is a clear order of social precedence and influence based on gender, age, and, in the case of a woman, the number of her male children. The senior male typically is the recognized family head, and his wife is the person who regulates the tasks assigned to female family members. Males enjoy higher status than females; boys are often pampered while girls are relatively neglected. This is reflected in significantly different rates of mortality and morbidity between the sexes, allegedly (though reliable statistics are lacking) in occasional female infanticide, and increasingly in the abortion of females following prenatal gender testing. This pattern of preference is largely connected to the institution of dowry, since the family's obligation to provide a suitable dowry to the bride's new family represents a major financial liability. Traditionally, women were expected to treat their husbands as if they were gods, and obedience of wives to husbands remains a strong social norm.

Beyond the family the most important unit is the caste. Within a village all members of a single caste recognize a fictive kinship relation and a sense of mutual obligation, but ideas of fictive kinship extend also to the village as a whole. Thus, for example, a woman who marries and goes to another village never ceases to be regarded as a daughter of her village. If she is badly treated in her husband's village, it may become a matter of collective concern for her natal village, not merely for those of her own caste.

Cuisine
Although there is considerable regional variation in Indian cuisine, the day-to-day diet of most Indians lacks variety. Depending on income, two or three meals generally are consumed. The bulk of almost all meals is whatever the regional staple might be: rice throughout most of the east and south, flat wheat bread (chapati) in the north and northwest, or bread made from pearl millet (bajra) in Maharashtra. This is usually supplemented with the puree of a legume (called dal), a few vegetables, and, for those who can afford it, a small bowl of yogurt. Chilies and other spices add zest to this simple fare. For most Indians, meat is a rarity, except on festive occasions; fish, fresh milk, and fruits and vegetables, however, are more widely consumed, subject to regional and seasonal availability. In general, tea is the preferred beverage in northern and eastern India, while coffee is more common in the south

Facts for the Traveller

Visas: Almost everybody needs a visa to visit India. They come in a variety of types, ranging from 15 days to six months and include single and multiple-entry versions. Only six-month tourist visas are extendable. Check whether your visa is valid from the date of entry or the date of issue.
Health risks: Cholera, malaria, dengue fever, dysentery, hepatitis, meningitis (trekking areas only) and typhoid. Most of India's larger cities are quite polluted. Travellers with respiratory ailments should take precautionary measures.
Time: GMT/UTC plus five hours 30 minutes
Electricity: 230-240V, 50 HZ
Weights & measures: Metric...Do you remember from sschool? :)
Tourism: 3 million visitors per year

Money & Costs

Currency: Indian rupee
Relative costs:
  • Cheap meal: US$1
  • Moderate restaurant meal: US$2-6
  • Expensive restaurant meal: US$10 +
  • Cheap room: US$3-12 (double)
  • Mid-range hotel room: US$15-35 (double)
  • Expensive hotel room: US$100-200++

HOTELS: Modern Western-style hotels are available in all large cities and at popular tourist centres. Usually they offer a choice of first-class Western and Indian cuisine. The well-known Taj Group offers accommodation in either eight grand luxe hotels or in its many superb business hotels. Serveral beach resorts, so-called palace hotels, garden retreats and hotels in areas of cultural significance are also part of the international group. Hotel charges in India are moderate compared to those in many other countries. Hotel bills may be subject to a 10% expenditure tax, 7-15% luxury tax and a variable service charge.

A full list of Government Approved Hotels, Palace Hotels and ITDC (Ashok) Travellers' Lodges is available from the Government of India Tourist Office; or contact the Federation of Hotel and Restaurant Associations of India, M-75 (Market), Greater Kailash II, New Delhi 110 048. Tel: (11) 643 8750. Fax: (11) 646 4191. Grading: Hotels range from old palace buildings that have been converted into Heritage Hotels, 5-star deluxe, 5- and 4-star hotels, which are fully air-conditioned with all luxury features, 3-star hotels, which are functional and have air-conditioned rooms, to 2- and 1-star hotels, which offer basic amenities.

TOURIST BUNGALOWS: There are tourist bungalows (known as holiday homes in Maharashtra and Gujarat, and tourist lodges in West Bengal) at almost every tourist centre in the country, under the control of the respective State Government Tourist Development Corporation, except in the metropolitan cities of Delhi, Calcutta, Madras, Mumbai and Bangalore. These include a clean single, double and family room, most with a bath and general canteen. At holiday homes and certain tourist cottages there are kitchen facilities. Bookings should be made (a deposit will be required) with the managing director of the respective corporation, or with the manager of the bungalow.

HOUSEBOATS: These are peculiar to Srinagar. Moored on the banks of the river Jhelum and the Dal and Nagin lakes, they range from 24-38m (79-125ft) in length and 3-6m (10-20ft) in width. There are two living rooms, two or three bedrooms, bathrooms, and hot and cold running water. The boats have every comfort and are sumptuously furnished with all modern amenities: electricity, crockery, cutlery, radios and decks for bathing. Smaller boats can be punted about and moored at different places. Each houseboat has a paddle boat for crossings and an attached kitchen-boat which also serves as quarters for the staff. Reductions are available for children and, in the lower two categories, for lodging only. Grading: There are four categories: deluxe, A, B and C.

CAMPSITES: These are to be found throughout India. Full addresses may be obtained from the GITO.

YOUTH HOSTELS: These provide a convenient and cheap base for organised tours, trekking, hiking or mountaineering. The Department of Tourism has set up 16 hostels, spread throughout every region, ideally placed for exploring both the plains and the hill stations. Each has a capacity for about 40 beds or more, segregated roughly half and half into male and female dormitories. Beds with mattresses, bedsheets, blankets, wardrobe with locks, electric light points, member kitchen utensils and parking areas are available at each hostel.

When to Go

India has such a wide range of climatic factors that it's impossible to pin down the best time to visit weather-wise with any certainty, though broadly speaking October to March tend to be the most pleasant months over much of the country. In the far south, the monsoonal weather pattern tends to make January to September more pleasant, while Sikkim and the areas of north-eastern India tend to be more palatable between March and August, and Kashmir and the mountainous regions of Himachal Pradesh are at their most accessible between May and September. The deserts of Rajasthan and the north-western Indian Himalayan region are at their best during the monsoon.

The trekking season in the Indian Himalaya runs roughly from April to November, though this varies widely depending on the trek, altitude and region. The ski season is between January and March. The dates of particular festivals which may determine the timing of your visit are listed in the events section.

Warning

India and Pakistan continue to trade insults and, occasionally, bullets across the disputed Kashmiri border. There have been reports of kidnappings and killngs, sometimes targeted against travelers, especially foreign travelers

SAFETY/SECURITY:

Terrorism: In July 1995, several Western tourists, including two Americans, were kidnapped by terrorists in Kashmir. One hostage was brutally murdered and one, an American, escaped. The remaining hostages, including one American, have not been released and their whereabouts are unknown. In 1996-1997 New Delhi was the site of numerous terrorist bombing attacks, although recently bombings in New Delhi and elsewhere have dropped to only a few a year. Such bomb blasts have occurred in public places, as well as on public transportation (common carriers), such as trains and buses. While no U.S. citizens were among the victims, other foreign visitors were reported injured. There is no pattern that has emerged in these attacks, nor is there any indication that they are directed against foreigners in general or Americans in particular. Nevertheless, U.S. citizens should be alert to suspicious packages in public places, and avoid crowds, political demonstrations, and other manifestations of civil unrest.

Civil Disturbances: Major civil disturbances pose risks to a travelerŐs personal safety and can disrupt transportation systems and city services. In response to such violence, Indian authorities may occasionally impose curfews and/or restrict travel. Political rallies and demonstrations in India have the potential for violence, especially during periods immediately preceding and following elections. In addition, the potential exists for religious and inter-caste violence. While such violence has not usually specifically targeted foreigners, mobs have attacked Christian workers, including foreigners. Missionary activity has aroused strong reactions in some areas, and an Australian missionary and his two sons were murdered by a mob in the eastern state of Orissa in January 1999. Nevertheless, the principal risk for foreigners appears to be that of becoming inadvertent victims. U.S. citizens should contact the U.S. Embassy or the nearest U.S. Consulate for further information about the current situation in areas where they wish to travel.

Areas of Instability: Kashmir - The Department of State strongly urges private U.S. citizens to avoid all travel to the Kashmir Valley and Doda District of the State of Jammu and Kashmir. American and other Western tourists were taken hostage (and at least one murdered) in Kashmir by terrorists in 1995. In 1999 the terrorist organization Harakat-Ul-Mujahideen issued a ban on Americans, including tourists, visiting Kashmir. Within the state, the Leh District of the Ladakh region has been largely unaffected by terrorist violence. Srinagar, the Kashmir valley, and the Doda District of Jammu remain very dangerous places, where terrorist activities and violent civil disturbances continue. An American tourist was fatally shot in Srinagar in 1994; in October 1999 a French tourist was shot and wounded in Srinagar; and in May 2000 a Czech tourist also was shot and wounded. Srinagar also has been the site of a number of car bombings, market bombings, and landmine deaths to date in 2000. In May 2000 a Minister for the state of Jammu and Kashmir was killed in a landmine explosion south of Srinagar. Also in May 2000, rocket propelled grenades were fired at a government building in Srinagar, killing a government employee and wounding others. U.S. government employees are prohibited from traveling to the state of Jammu and Kashmir without permission from the U.S. Embassy in New Delhi.

Areas of Instability: Northeast States - Sporadic incidents of violence by ethnic insurgent groups, including the bombing of buses and trains, are reported from parts of Assam, Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, and Meghalaya. While U.S. citizens have not been specifically targeted, visitors are cautioned not to travel outside major cities at night. Security laws are in force, and the central government has deployed security personnel to several northeast states. Travelers may check with the U.S. Consulate in Calcutta for information on current conditions. (Please see address below.)

Areas of Instability: India-Pakistan border - Tensions run high between India and Pakistan, particularly over Kashmir. The only official India-Pakistan border crossing point is between Atari, India, and Wagah, Pakistan. A Pakistani visa is required for entry to Pakistan.

Both India and Pakistan claim an area of the Karakoram Mountain range that includes the Siachen Glacier. The two countries have military outposts in the region, and armed clashes have occurred. Because of this situation, U.S. citizens traveling to or climbing peaks anywhere in the disputed areas face significant risk of injury and death. The disputed area includes the following peaks: Rimo Peak; Apsarasas I, II and III; Tegam Kangri I, II and III; Suingri Kangri; Ghiant I and II; Indira Col; and Sia Kangri.

Restricted Areas: Permission from the Indian government (from Indian diplomatic missions abroad or in some cases from the Ministry of Home Affairs) is required to visit the states of Mizoram, Manipur, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, parts of Kulu District and Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh, border areas of Jammu and Kashmir, some areas of Uttar Pradesh, the area west of National Highway no. 15 running from Ganganagar to Sanchar in Rajasthan, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, and the Union Territory of the Laccadive Islands.

CRIME INFORMATION: Petty crime, especially theft of personal property, is common. While violent crime is uncommon, some Westerners, including Americans, have been the subject of robberies and violent attacks that resulted in serious injuries, and in one recent case, death. The common thread for more serious attacks on travelers has been that the individuals were on their own. Travelers are strongly advised not to travel alone in India.

Please, while traveling in India, keep your wits about you, but try not to feel paranoid and destroy the pleasure of your trip.  Always remember that this is a different culture and your judgment that might work very well for you in your culture, will probably not be very accurate here.

Attractions

The North
Delhi has two parts: New Delhi, India's capital and the seat of government, is a 20th-century city, offering wide tree-lined boulevards, spacious parks and the distinctive style of Lutyens' architectural design; 'Old' Delhi, on the other hand, is a city several centuries old, teeming with narrow winding streets, temples, mosques and bazaars. Notable sites are the Red Fort and the nearby Jama Masjid (India's largest mosque) and the Qutab Minar's soaring tower. Delhi attracts the finest musicians and dancers offering an ideal opportunity to hear the sitar, sarod and the subtle rhythm of the tabla, and to see an enthralling variety of dance forms, each with its own costumes and elaborate language of gestures. Theatres and cinemas show films from all over India, and the city has some of the country's finest restaurants offering many styles of regional cuisine.

Delhi lies at the apex of the 'Golden Triangle' ? . an area filled with ancient sites and monuments. In the southwest lies Agra, city of the fabled Taj Mahal. This magnificent mausoleum was built by Shah Jahan as a monument to his love for his wife, Mumtaz, who died in childbirth. Shah Jehan was later imprisoned by his own son in the nearby Red Fort. Other important landmarks are Akbar's Palace, the Jahangir Mahal, the octagonal tower Mussumman Burj and the Pearl Mosque. Nearby is Fatehpur Sikri, the town Akbar built as his new capital but abandoned after only a few years. This town is now no more than a ghost town.

The southwestern pivot of the triangle is Jaipur, gateway to the desert state of Rajasthan. Known as the 'Pink City' because of the distinctive colour of its buildings, Jaipur is a town of broad, open avenues and many palaces. The Amber Palace, just outside the city is particularly beautiful, as is the fa??ade of the Palace of the Winds within the city walls. To the southwest is Udaipur, famed for its Lake Palace Hotel, built on an island in the lake, while to the north, in the centre of the Rajasthan desert, is Jodhpur, with its colourful, winding lanes and towering fortress. Near Ajmer is the small lakeside town of Pushkar. It is a site of religious importance for Hindus and it is here that every November the fascinating Camel Fair is held. Jaisalmer is a charming oasis town, once a resting place on the old caravan route to Persia. Among its attractions are the camel treks out into the surrounding desert.

To the south of the 'Golden Triangle' is the huge state of Madhya Pradesh. Its greatest attractions lie close to the northern frontier. Less than 160km (100 miles) from Agra is the great ruined fortress at Gwalior. To the east lies Khajuraho with its famous temples and friezes of sensuously depicted figures ? . a must for any visitor.

To the east of Delhi is the state of Uttar Pradesh, through which flows the sacred River Ganga. Built along its bank is the wondrous city of Varanasi, India's holiest Hindu location. The town itself is a maze of winding streets, dotted with temples and shrines. Lining the river are a series of ghats which, at dawn, are thronged with pilgrims and holy men performing ritual ablutions and prayers.

Less than 320km (200 miles) to the north of Delhi is Shimla, the greatest of all hill stations, surrounded by finely scented pine forests and the rich beauty of the Kulu Valley.

In the far north, reaching into Central Asia, is the extensive mountain region of Kashmir, an area long established as a popular summer resort, and the valley of the River Jhelum. The gateway to the region is Jammu, a town surrounded by lakes and hills. The temples of Rambireshwar and Raghunath number among its most impressive sights. Jammu is the railhead for Srinagar, the ancient capital of Kashmir, and favourite resort of the Mughal emperors. It was they who built the many waterways and gardens around Lake Dal, complementing the natural beauty of the area. Among the attractions are the houseboats where visitors can live on the lakes surrounded by scenery so beautiful it is known as 'paradise on earth'.

Srinagar is also a convenient base for trips to Gulmarg and Pahalgam. Gulmarg offers fine trout fishing, and enjoys the distinction of having the highest golf course in the world. From here there are good views of Nanga Parbat, one of the highest mountains in the world. It is well placed as a starting point for treks into the hills and mountains. Pahalgam is another popular hill resort and base for pilgrimages to the sacred cave of Amar Nath.

More exotic, though less accessible, is the region of Ladakh, beyond the Kashmir Valley. It is a mountainous land on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau which is still largely Tibetan in character. The capital, Leh, is situated high in the Karakouram mountain range, through which passed the old Silk Road from China to India and Europe.

The West
The principal metropolis of Western India is Mumbai, the capital of the state of Maharashtra, a bustling port and commercial centre, with plate-glass skyscrapers and modern industry jostling alongside bazaars and the hectic streetlife. Many of the country's films are made in the famous Mumbai studios. The city also boasts one of the finest race tracks in India, the Mahalaxmi course. There is a pleasant seafront with a palm-lined promenade and attractive beaches such as Juhu, Versova, Marve, Madh and Manori. On the waterfront is Mumbai's best-known landmark, the Gateway to India, whence boats leave on the 10km (6-mile) journey across the busy harbour to the Elephanta Island. The island is famous for the 8th-century cave temples, on whose walls are large rock carvings, the finest of which is the 3-faced Maheshmurti, the great Lord.

To the north lies the state of Gujarat, renowned for its silks, as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, and as the last refuge of the Asian lion, found deep in the Gir Forest. Ahmedabad, in the east of the state, is the principal textile city of India, producing silks which are famous throughout the world. Ahmadabad is also the site of Sabarmati Ashram, founded by Mahatma Gandhi, from where his ideology of non-violence is still promoted. Gandhi's birthplace is some 320km (200 miles) to the west, in the fishing village of Porbandar.

To the east of Mumbai is Aurangabad, the starting point for visits to two of the world's most outstanding rock-cut temples. The Buddhist cave temples at Ajanta date back at least 2000 years. Cut into the steep face of a deep rock gorge, the 30 caves contain exquisite paintings depicting daily life at that time.

The caves at Ellora depict religious stories and are Hindu, Buddhist and Jain in origin. The Temple of Kailasa is the biggest hewn monolith temple in the world. Southeast of Mumbai are several fine hill stations, notably Matheran with its narrow gauge trains, Mahabaleshwar and Pune with its peaceful Bund Gardens.

Further to the south lies Goa. The 100km-long (60-mile) coastline offers some of the finest beaches in the subcontinent. Goa was Portuguese until 1961, and there is also a charming blend of Latin and Indian cultures. Panaji, the state capital, is one of the most relaxed and elegant of India's cities. The town is dominated by the huge Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, but the shops, bars and pleasant streets are its main attraction. 'Old Goa', only a bus ride away from Panaji, displays a bewildering variety of architectural styles. Buildings of note include the Basilica and the Convent and Church of St Francis of Assisi. In nearby Ponda is the 400-year-old Temple of Shri Mangesh, which is said to be the oldest Hindu shrine.

Accommodation in the region includes the luxury resort of Aguada, the Taj holiday village and the Aguada hermitage. There are also good, simple hotels and cottages for rent in villages along the coastline, notably Calangute, Baga and Colva.

Goa also has several wildlife sanctuaries, including Bondla in the hills of western Ghats, where wild boar and sambar can be seen in their natural habitat. The region is famous for its food ? . an array of dishes, both Indian and Portuguese ? . as well as for its colourful festivals, including the spectacular Carnival held on the three days leading up to Ash Wednesday.

The South
The south is the part of India least affected by incursions of foreign cultures through the centuries. It is here that Indian heritage has survived in its purest form.

The regional capital is Madras, India's fourth-largest city. Madras is the cradle of the ancient Dravidian civilisation, one of the oldest articulate cultures in the world. It is also home of the classical style of Indian dancing and a notable centre of temple sculpture art. Sprawling over 130 sq km (50 sq miles), the metropolis has few tall buildings and enjoys the relaxed ambience of a market town rather than the bustle of a huge city. From Madras Lighthouse there is a fine view of the city that includes many churches which tell of the city's strong Christian influence, first introduced in AD78 when the apostle St Thomas was martyred here.

Madras, however, is largely a commercial city and the centre of the area's rail, air and road networks, and serves as a good starting point from which to explore the south.

Within the region are several important religious centres, notably Kanchipuram, which has an abundance of temples, and whose striking gopurams, or gateways, are decorated with sculptures of gods and goddesses. Inland is Madurai, with a large and bustling temple, and Thanjavur. Also worth visiting is Tiruchirappalli, which has a fortress built atop a strange boulder-shaped hill that dominates the town.

Further south, along the coast, is Pondicherry, an attractive town with a distinctive French style, and beyond, Rameswaram, once the ferry link to Sri Lanka.

To the west lies the state of Kerala, where many of India's major coastal resorts are to be found. Among the finest is Kovalam, offering unspoilt beaches and a new complex of modern amenities, including luxury bungalows and a 5-storey hotel with swimming pool. Only a few miles away is Trivandrum, the state capital with its famous Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Further inland is the Periyar Game Sanctuary which has a rich and varied wildlife. Other resorts include Cranganorre, Alleppey and Cochin.

Further to the north is the state of Karnataka, which has fine, unexplored beaches at Karwar, Mahe and Udupi. The state's capital is Bangalore, an affluent city which is the centre of electronics and engineering industries, but has many charming parks and gardens. To the southwest lies Mysore, where incense is manufactured, and where you can stay in the Lalitha Mahal Hotel, previously the home of a Maharaja.

Karnataka has a number of important religious and historical sites, including the ruins at Hampi to the north of Bangalore, and the vast statue of Lord Bahubali at Sravanabelagola, north of Mysore.

To the east of Karnataka is the state of Andhra Pradesh, with its capital at Hyderabad, offering a well-stocked one-man museum. 220km (350 miles) to the east is Visakhapatnam, the fourth-largest port.

Far away to the east across the Bay of Bengal are the Andaman Islands, a lushly forested archipelago which has exotic plant life and a wide variety of corals and tropical fish, making it a major attraction for snorkelling enthusiasts. The islands' capital, Port Blair, can be reached from Madras and Calcutta by boat or air.

The East
The largest city in India and hub of the east is Calcutta. Established as a British trading post in the 17th century, it grew rapidly into a vibrant centre. Its colonial heritage is reflected in the buildings of Chowringhee Street and Clive Street, now Jawaharlal Nehru Road and Netaji Subhash Road. The city is filled with life and energy. It is a major business centre and offers fine markets and bazaars. It is also the centre of much of the country's creative and intellectual activity, including the sub-continent's finest film-makers. Central Calcutta is best viewed from the Maidan, the central area of parkland where early morning yoga sessions take place. The city's Indian Museum is one of the finest in Asia. Other attractions include the white marble Victoria Memorial, the Ochterlony Monument (Sahid Minar) and the headquarters of the Rama Krishna movement. Across the river are the Kali Temple of Dakshineshwasar (Belur Math headquarters of Ramakrishna Movement) and the Botanical Gardens.

To the west is the state of Bihar, with the religious centre of Bodhgaya, a sacred place for both Hindus and Buddhists. To the south, in the state of Orissa, are three temple cities. Foremost is Bhubaneswar, a town in which there once stood no less than 7000 temples, 500 of which have survived. Largest of these is the great Lingaraja Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. A short journey away to the south of Bhubaneswar lies Puri, one of the four holiest cities in India, now being developed as a beach resort. In June and July Puri stages one of India's most spectacular festivals, the Rath Yatra or 'Car Festival', at which pilgrims pay homage to images of gods drawn on massive wooden chariots. A short distance along the coast to the north is Konarak, known for its 'Black Pagoda' ? . a huge solitary temple to the sun god in the form of a chariot drawn by horses. The sculpture has a sensuous nature similar to that of Khajuraho, and is counted amongst the finest in India.

To the north of Calcutta is one of the great railway journeys of the world, the 'Toy Train' to Darjeeling. The last part of the line runs through jungle, tea gardens and pine forests. Darjeeling straddles a mountain slope which drops steeply to the valley below, and commands fine views of Kanchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft), the third-highest mountain in the world. It is the headquarters of the Indian Mountaineering Institute, as well as the birthplace of Sherpa Tenzing. It is also a world-renowned tea-growing centre.

A bus journey of two and a half hours takes one to Kalimpong, a bazaar town at the foot of the Himalayas. From here a number of treks can be made to places offering fine panoramas of the mountains.

Further north is the mountain state of Sikkim. The capital, Gangtok, lies in the southwest. The main activity for visitors is trekking, although it is still in its infancy and facilities are minimal. At the moment travel for non-Indian residents is limited. Trekking is allowed only in groups, while individuals may only visit Gangtok, Rumtek and Phodom. The nearest railheads are Darjeeling and Siliguri, on the slow but spectacular line of India's northeast frontier railway.

Even further to the east are the states of Assam and Meghalaya. Assam is famous for tea and wildlife reserves, and can be reached from the state capital of Guwahati. The tiger reserve of Manas is also rich in other varieties of wildlife, while in Kaziranga it is possible to see the one-horned rhinoceros of India.

Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, is the home of the Khasi people. The region is filled with pine groves, waterfalls and brooks and is described as the 'Scotland of the East'.

Off the Beaten Path

Hill Stations
Hill stations have long been popular among Indians and foreign visitors alike for providing a relaxing and salubrious retreat from the heat of the plains. Further information on some of the places mentioned here may be found by consulting other sections in Resorts & Excursions above.

The most popular hill stations include:

Kashmir: Leh in Ladakh, Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg for lakes, houseboats, good hotels, tourist reception centres. Himachal Pradesh: Shimla (various types of hotels, tourist bungalows), nearby Kufri (winter sports centre, skating rink, skiing facilities), Kulu, Manali (reasonably priced hotels, log huts, travellers lodges and tourist bungalows). Uttar Pradesh: Nainital boasts a lake boat club, Almora, Ranikhet (reasonably priced hotels, tourist bungalows, clubs, youth hostels), Mussoorie, Ropeway (hotels and tourist bungalows). West Bengal: Darjeeling, RA, Kalimpong for mountaineering. Meghalaya: Shillong. Sikkim: Gangkok (RA, hotels). Tamil Nadu: Ootacamund, Udagamandalam, Kodaikanal, Silvery Lake ? . hotels, tourist bungalows.

Lesser-known hill stations include:

Himachal Pradesh: Dalhousie, Dharamsala, Nahan, Paonta Saheb, Keylong, Chamba and Kangra. Kashmir: Sonamarg, Batote. Uttar Pradesh: Dehra Dun, Lansdown. West Bengal: Mirik. Madhya Pradesh: Pachmarhi. Maharashtra: Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani, Panhala, Matheran, Lonavla and Khandala. Gujarat: Saputara. Rajasthan: Mount Abu. Tamil Nadu: Yercaud, Coonoor, Kotagiri. Kerala: Ponmundi, Munnar. Karnataka: Mercara. Andhra Pradesh: Horseley Hills. Bihar: Netarhat.

Trekking
Trekking conjures up visions of the spectacular northern and eastern Himalayas, the mist-strewn Western Ghats or the blue tranquillity of the Nilgiri Hills. India is the ideal destination for a trekking holiday, offering everything from short and easy excursions to the long challenges of the snowy peaks. Trekking requires the stamina to walk long hours and the mental agility to adapt to a spectacular and ever-changing landscape.

The highest mountain range on earth ? . the Himalayas ? . forms 3500km (2200 miles) of India's northern and eastern frontiers. The spectacle of the snow-capped peaks, glaciers, pine-forested slopes, rivers and lush meadows of wild flowers cannot be equalled. Peninsular India offers natural beauty of another kind, clothed in green woodland and fragrant orchards.

Below is a description of the most important trekking areas in India, and also a section devoted to general trekking information and sources of further information.

JAMMU & KASHMIR: Jammu & Kashmir is India's northernmost state, and the one which is best-known for trekking. It is an extravagantly beautiful land of flower-spangled meadows, wild orchards, spectacular coniferous forests, icy mountain peaks and clear streams and rivers. The capital, Srinagar, is the base for many treks, notably to the blue Zabarwan Hills and Shankaracharya Hill. The three other main bases in Jammu & Kashmir are Pahalgam (100km/62 miles from Srinigar) in the Lidder Valley, the base for treks to sacred Amarnath, Aru, Lidderwat and the glacial lakes of Tarsar and Tulian; Gulmarg (51km/32 miles from Srinagar), from where treks can be made to the crystal tarns of Apharwat and Alpather, the upland lakes of Vishansar and Gangabal and the Thajiwas Glacier; and Sonamarg, in the Sindh Valley, the base for treks into the surrounding mountains.

Srinagar is also the roadhead for trips into the arid plateau of Ladakh, a country of perpetual drought, the home of wild asses and yaks and with high ranges that have some of the largest glaciers in the world outside the polar regions. Leh, the divisional capital, lies on an ancient Silk Road and is the base for spectacular treks across this remarkable landscape.

Further south, excellent trekking may be had in the vicinity of Jammu, the railhead to the Kashmir Valley. The three main centres are Kishtwar, Doda and Poonch.

HIMACHAL PRADESH: The landscape of this province ranges from the barren rocks and raging torrents of the valleys of Spiti and Lahaul in the north to the southern orchard country of Kangra and Chamba. Treks from Manali include the Bhaga River to Keylong, and then on to the Bara Shigri glacier or over the Baralacha Pass to Leh (see above). Kullu, in the centre of the province, is set in a narrow valley between the towering Himalayas and the River Beas, and is famous for its temples and religious festivals. Treks from here traverse terraced paddy fields and on to remoter regions of snow and ice. The view from the Rohtang Pass is particularly spectacular. The town of Dharamsala, in the Kangra Valley area, is the base for treks into the Bharmaur Valley over the Indrahar Pass, and on to other still higher passes beyond. Chamba, situated on a mountain above the Ravi River, is named after the fragrant trees which flourish around its richly carved temples. Treks from the nearby town of Dalhousie lead to the glacial lake of Khajjiar and to the passes of Sach and Chini. Shimla, once the summer capital of the British, is a high hill station and the base for treks into Kullu Valley via the Jalori Pass and on to the Kalpur and Kinnaur valleys.

GARHWAL: Set high in the Garhwal Himalayas, this region (which is sometimes referred to as the Uttarakhand) abounds in myths and legends of the Indian gods. It is also where the source of the life-giving 'Ganga' is to be found; indeed, many of the great rivers of northern India have their headwaters in this land of lush valleys and towering snow-ridged peaks. Mussoorie, a hill station much used by the British to escape the searing heat of the plains, is an excellent base for treks into the Gangotri and Yamounotri valleys. The source of the Ganga at Gaumukh can also be reached from here. Another hill station, Rishikesh, is situated just north of the sacred city of Hardwar, and is the base for treks to another holy shrine, Badrinath. A particularly rewarding stop en route to Badrinath is the breathtaking Valley of Flowers, which is in full bloom in August. Other destinations include Hemkund Lake, Mandakini Valley and Kedarnath, one of the 12 Jyotirlings of Lord Shiva with a beautiful temple.

KUMAON: This region, which stretches from the Himalayas in the north to the green foothills of Terai and Bhabar in the south, consists of the three northeastern Himalayan districts of Uttar Pradesh, all of which are particularly rich in wildlife. One of the major trekking centres is Almora, an ideal base for treks into pine and rhododendron forests with dramatic views of stark, snow-capped mountains. The Pindiri Glacier and the valley of Someshwar can be reached from here. Another base is Nanital, a charming, orchard-rich hill station. It is the base for short treks to Bhimtal, Khurpatal and Binayak Forest. Ranikhet, with a magnificent view of the central Himalayas, is the base for treks to Kausani. The view from here is one of the most spectacular in India, and inspired Mahatma Gandhi to pen his commentary on the Gita-Anashakti Yoga.

DARJEELING AND SIKKIM: Dominated by the five summits of mighty Kanchenjunga, the Darjeeling and Sikkim area of the Eastern Himalayas is also a region of gentle hills and dales, pine forests, turquoise lakes and babbling streams. One of the best ways of arriving in the area is by the 'Toy Train' from New Jalpaiguri. The town of Darjeeling is the home of the Everest-climber Tenzing Norgay and also of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and is the base for both low- and high-level treks. Destinations include Tiger Hill (offering a breathtaking view of the Himalayas), and the peaks of Phalut, Sandakphu, Singalila and Tanglu. To the north, Sikkim is a wonderland of ferns and flowers, birds and butterflies, orchids and bamboos, forests of cherry, oak and pine, all set among slowly flowing rivers, terraced paddy fields and blazing rhododendrons. Deep in the interior are Sikkim's famous monasteries, their white prayer flags fluttering against a deep blue sky. The capital is Gangtok, a convenient base for treks into the mysterious north and east of the region, to sacred Yaksum, Pemayangtse and the mountains near Bakkhim and Dzongri.

ARAVALLI HILLS: The Aravallis, remnants of the oldest mountain range in the sub-continent, resemble outcroppings of rocks rather than mountains and are virtually barren except for thorny acacias and date palm groves found near the oases. The main resort in the region, Mount Abu, stands on an isolated plateau surrounded by rich green forest. A variety of one-day treks are available from here, all of which afford the opportunity to visit some of the remarkable temples in the region, notably Arbuda Devi Temple, carved out of the rock face and offering spectacular views across the hills. Guru Shikhar, Gaumukh and Achalgarh Fort can all be reached during one-day treks from Mount Abu.

SATPURA RANGE: This range straddles central India and forms the northern border of the Deccan. The main hill station is Pachmarhi, a beautiful resort of green forest glades and deep ravines overlooking red sandstone hills. Short treks can be had from here to the Mahadeo and Dhupgarh peaks.

WESTERN GHATS: The Western Ghats run parallel to the west coast of India from the River Tapti to the southernmost tip of the sub-continent. The mountains are lush and thickly forested and although they cannot claim to have the awesome majesty of the great Himalayas, the region has many features of great natural beauty. The hill station of Mahabaleshwar, in the north of the range, is the highest in the area and is considered an ideal base for trekkers. Other popular bases and trekking destinations include Lonavala, Khandala, Matheran and Bhor Ghat, a picturesque region of waterfalls, lakes and woods. Further south in Karnataka is Coorg, perched on a green hilltop and surrounded by mountainous countryside. Madikeri is a take-off point for treks in this region. The Upper Palani hills in Tamil Nadu are an offshoot of the Ghats, covered in rolling downs and coarse grass. Kodaikanal is the attractive base for two short treks to Pilar Rock and Green Valley View. Courtallam, also in Tamil Nadu, is surrounded by dense vegetation and coffee and spice plantations; rich in wildlife, it is also one of the most beautiful areas of the Western Ghats.

NILGIRIS: The gentle heights of southern India, a world away from the daunting Himalayas, are friendly and approachable with treks made simple by moderate altitudes and a pleasant climate. Sometimes known as the Blue Mountains because of their lilac hue, they are noted for their orange orchards, tea gardens, wooded slopes and tranquil lakes. There are three major trekking centres here: Ootacamund (popularly known as Ooty) is the base for walks to the Wenlock Downs, the Kalahatti Falls and Mudumali Game Sanctuary; Coonoor, conveniently situated for Drogg's Peak and Lamb's Rock; and Kotagiri, the oldest of the three, whose sheltered position enables it to offer many shaded treks to explore the tranquillity of the Nilgiris.

GENERAL TREKKING INFORMATION: Essential equipment: Tent, sleeping bag, foam/inflatable mattress, rucksack, umbrella (doubles as a walking stick), sun-hat, dark glasses, toilet requirements. Clothing: Wind-proof jacket, down jacket, trousers, shirts, woollen pullover, woollen underwear (for high altitudes), and gloves. Footwear: Be sure to take a light, flexible and comfortable pair of trekking boots (two pairs should be taken for longer treks) and at least three pairs of woollen socks. Use talc to keep feet dry. First-aid kit: Sterilised cotton wool, bandages, antiseptic ointment, water purification tablets, pills, etc for common ailments (such as cough, cold, headache, stomach ache, etc), eye lotion, anti-sunburn cream, a hot stimulant for emergencies, and morphia salt tablets to avoid cramps. Miscellaneous: Torch, thermos/water bottle, insect repellant, mirror, cold cream, lip-salve, walking stick, spare boot laces, sewing kit, tinned and dehydrated food. Food & accommodation: Board and lodging accommodation is available on all trekking routes. Permits: No system of issuing Trekking Permits exists in India. Trekkers are, however, reminded that it is forbidden to enter Restricted and Protected Areas without the correct documentation. Consult the GITO before departure or local tourist offices on arrival in India to ascertain what restrictions may apply and what documentation may be required. Season: This varies from region to region; check with the GITO for further information. In general, the season runs from April to June and September to November. It is possible to undertake treks in the valleys of Lahaul, Pangi and Zanskar and in Ladakh during the rainy season (June to August), as these areas receive minimal precipitation. Mountaineering: Permission for mountaineering must be obtained from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Anand Niketan, Beneto Juarez Road, New Delhi 110 021.

Wildlife
The Indian peninsula is a continent in itself, the geographical diversity of which has resulted in a vast range of wildlife, with over 350 species of mammals and 1200 species of birds in the country. Each region has something special to offer: the hangul is restricted to the valley of Kashmir in northern India, the rhino is found in isolated pockets along the Brahmaputra River in the east, the black langur in the Western Ghats, and Western India is the home of the last remaining Asiatic lions.

Two of India's most impressive animals, the Bengal (or Indian) tiger and the Asiatic elephant are still found in most regions, though their population has shrunk drastically.

Most of India's wildlife finds refuge in over 200 sanctuaries and parks around the country. The following list refers to some of the more important of these. Accommodation often needs to be booked in advance, either by direct application or through the local State TDC or the controlling authority of the respective park.

NORTHERN INDIA

Dachigam Wildlife Sanctuary (Kashmir): Broad valley; mountain slopes; rare hangul deer, black and brown bear, leopard; heronry.

Govind Sagar Bird Sanctuary (Himachal Pradesh): Bird sanctuary with crane, duck, goose and teal.

Corbett National Park (Uttar Pradesh): Himalayan foothills near Dhikala; Sal forest and plains; tiger, elephant, leopard and rich birdlife. Excellent fishing in Ramganga River.

Dudhwa National Park (Uttar Pradesh): Nepal border; tiger, sloth bear and panther.

Valley of Flowers National Park (Uttar Pradesh): When in bloom this 'roof garden' at 3500m (11,500ft) is a glorious blaze of colour. Permits are required to enter.

Sariska National Park (Rajasthan): About 200km (125 miles) from Delhi. Forest and open plains; sambar (largest Indian deer), cheetal (spotted deer), nilgai (Indian antelope), black buck, leopard and tiger; good night-viewing.

Ranthambhor (Sawai Madhopur ? . Rajasthan): Hill forest, plains and lakes; sambar, chinkara (Indian gazelle), tiger, sloth bear, crocodiles and migratory water-birds.

Bharatpur National Park (Keoloadeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary) (Rajasthan): India's most outstanding bird sanctuary; many indigenous water-birds; huge migration from Siberia and China; crane, goose, stork, heron, snakes, birds, etc.

Bandhavgarh National Park (Madhya Pradesh): Situated in the Vindhyan Mountains, this park has a wide variety of wildlife including panther, sambar and gaur.

Kanha National Park (Madhya Pradesh): Sal forest and grassland; only home of barasingha (swamp deer), tiger, cheetal and gaur.

Shivpuri National Park (Madhya Pradesh): Open forest and lake; chinkara, chowsingha (4-horned antelope), nilgai, tiger, leopard and water-birds.

EASTERN INDIA

Kaziranga National Park (Assam): Elephant grass and swamps; one-horned Indian rhinoceros, water buffalo, tiger, leopard, elephant, deer and rich birdlife. Elephant transport is available within the park.

Manas Wildlife Sanctuary (Assam): On the Bhutan border, rainforest, grassland and river banks; rhino, water buffalo, tiger, elephant, golden langur and water-birds; fishing permitted.

Palamau Tiger Reserve (Bihar): Rolling, forested hills; tiger, leopard, elephant, sambar, jungle cat, rhesus macaque (monkey) and occasionally wolf.

Hazaribagh National Park (Bihar): Sal forested hills; sambar, nilgai, cheetal, tiger, leopard and occasionally muntjac (larger barking deer).

Sundarbans Tiger Reserve (West Bengal): Mangrove forests; tiger, fishing cat, deer, crocodile, dolphin and rich birdlife. Transport: access and travel by chartered boat.

Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary (West Bengal): Tropical forest and grassland; rhino, elephant and rich birdlife.

Similipal Tiger Reserve (Orissa): Immense Sal forest; tiger, elephant, leopard, sambar, cheetal, muntjac and chevrotain.

Chilika Wildlife (Bird) Sanctuary (Orissa): Migratory birds, flamingo, Siberian ducks, heron and Teal Comorant.

SOUTHERN INDIA

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary (Kerala): Large artificial lake; elephant, gaur, wild dog, black langur, otters, tortoises and rich birdlife including hornbill and fishing owl. Viewing by boat.

Vedanthangal Water Birds Sanctuary (Tamil Nadu): One of the most spectacular breeding grounds in India. Cormorant, heron, stork, pelican, grebe and many others.

Point Calimere Bird Sanctuary (Tamil Nadu): Particularly noted for its flamingo, also for heron, teal, curlew and plover, black buck and wild pig.

Pulicat Bird Sanctuary (Andhra Pradesh): Flamingo, grey pelican, heron and tern.

Dandeli National Park (Karnataka): Park with bison, panther, tiger and sambar. Easily accessible from Goa.

Jawahar National Park (includes Bandipur and Nagarhole National Parks (Karnataka), and the Wildlife Sanctuaries of Mudumalai (Tamil Nadu) and Wayanad (Kerala): Extensive mixed forest; largest elephant population in India, leopard, gaur, sambar, muntjac and giant squirrel. Birds include racquet-tailed drongo, trogon and barbet.

WESTERN INDIA

Krishnagiri Upavan National Park (Maharashtra): Formerly known as Borivli, this park protects an important scenic area close to Mumbai. Kanheri Caves and Vihar, Tulsi and Powai lakes; water-birds and smaller types of wildlife. Lion Safari Park nearby.

Tadoba National Park (Maharashtra): Teak forests and lake; tiger, leopard, nilgai and gaur. Night-viewing.

Sasan Gir National Park (Gujarat): Forested plains and lake; only home of Asiatic lion, sambar, chowsingha, nilgai, leopard, chinkara and wild boar.

Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary (Gujarat): Lake; migratory water-birds; indigenous birds include flamingo.

Little Rann of Kutch Wildlife Sanctuary (Gujarat): Desert; herds of khur (Indian wild ass), wolf and caracal.

Velavadar National Park (Gujarat): New Delta grasslands; large concentration of black buck.

Getting There & Away

AIR: India's national airline is Air India (AI).

For free advice on air travel from the UK, call the Air Travel Advisory Bureau in the UK on (0171) 636 5000 or (010) 638 2000 (Manchester).

Approximate flight times: From London to Delhi is 9 hours, to Calcutta is 12 hours, to Madras is 12 hours 30 minutes and to Mumbai is 9 hours.

From Los Angeles to Delhi is 25 hours 30 minutes.

From New York to Delhi is 18 hours.

From Singapore to Delhi is 5 hours.

From Sydney to Delhi is 10 hours.

International airports: All the above airports have money exchange facilities, tourist information offices and hotel reservation services.

Mumbai (BOM) is 29km (18 miles) north of the city (travel time ? . 75-90 minutes). Taxi services go to the city. Taxi fares should have fixed rates from the airport to the city. Public transport is also available in the form of the EATS bus service and local buses. Other facilities include a retiring room for passengers in transit and a child-care lounge.

Calcutta (CCU) is 13km (8 miles) northeast of the city (travel time ? . 40-60 minutes). There is a 24-hour coach service to Indian Airlines city office and major hotels. A bus goes every 10 minutes 0530-2200. Taxi services go to the city. There is a 24-hour post office, bars, duty-free shops and restaurants available.

Delhi (DEL) (Indira Gandhi International) is 22km (15 miles) south of the city (travel time ? . 45 minutes). There are coach, bus and taxi services to the city. There are 24-hour duty-free shops and restaurants.

Madras (MAA) is 14km (8 miles) southwest of the city (travel time ? . 30-40 minutes). A coach meets all flight arrivals 0900-2300. There is a train every 20-30 minutes from 0500-2300. Bus no. 18A runs every 25 minutes from 0500-2200. Taxi services go to the city.

Departure tax: All airports except Mumbai (BOM) levy the following departure tax: RS300 (for flights to Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka). RS750 (all other destinations).

Note: Ahmedabad Airport is being upgraded as an international airport.

SEA: The main passenger ports are Mumbai, Calcutta, Cochin, Madras, Calicut, Panaji (Goa) and Rameswaram (the main departure point for the sea crossing to Sri Lanka; passenger services are presently suspended due to the political situation in Sri Lanka).

Indian ports are also served by several international shipping companies and several cruise lines. There are, however, no regular passenger liners operating to South-East Asia.

RAIL: Note: This section gives details of the major overland routes to neighbouring countries (where frontiers are open); in most cases these will involve road as well as rail travel. Details should be checked with the GITO as they may be subject to change.

Connections to Pakistan are currently only possible between Amritsar and Lahore (New Delhi? . Amritsar? . Lahore? . Hyderabad? . Karachi).

The most practical and popular route to Nepal is by train to Raxaul (Bihar) and then by bus to Kathmandu or by train to Gorakphur (or by bus if coming from Varanasi) and then by bus to Kathmandu crossing the border at Sunauli; also, by train to Nautanwa (UP) and then by bus to Kathmandu/Pokhara, or Bhairawa to Lumbini for Pokhara. It is also possible to make the crossing from Darjeeling by bus to Kathmandu across the southern lowlands.

The best way of reaching Bhutan is by train to Siliguri, then bus to Phuntsholing. There is also an airlink from Calcutta to Paro by Druk Air.

To Bangladesh, the best route is Calcutta to Bongaon (West Bengal) by train, rickshaw across the border to Benapol, with connections via Khulna or Jessore to Dhaka. Another route is from Darjeeling via Siliguri, then train or bus from Jalpaiguri to Haldibari.

Travel to Sri Lanka is possible on the following link: Madras? . Rameswaram? . Talaimannar? . Colombo Fort. This includes a ferry crossing from Rameswaram.

Currently no land frontiers are open between India and Myanmar or the People's Republic of China.

ROAD: Of late, the overland route from Europe to India has become very popular, but travellers should have accurate information about border crossings, visa requirements and political situations en route. Several 'adventure holiday' companies arrange overland tours and buses to India. For information on overland routes to neighbouring countries, consult the Rail section above.

Getting Around

AIR: The domestic airline is Indian Airlines (IC). The network connects over 70 cities. Indian Airlines also operate regular flights to the neighbouring countries of Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Afghanistan, the Maldives, Singapore and Thailand. Recently-created domestic airlines include Jet Airways (9W), Modiluft (M9), East-West Airlines (4S), NEPC Airlines (D5) and Alliance Air (CD), a subsidiary of Indian Airlines.

Special fares: There are various special Indian Airlines fares available to foreign nationals and Indian nationals residing abroad. All are available throughout the year, and may be purchased either abroad or in India, where payment is made in a foreign convertible currency (such as US Dollars or Sterling). With the exception of the Youth Fare India (see below), discounts of 90% are available for children under two years, and of 50% for children aged 2-12. Full details of all the special fares are contained in the INDIA brochure, available from the GITO. A summary of each is given below.

Discover India: There are two types of ticket available; a 21 day ticket costs US$750, a 15 day ticket costs US$500 and a 7 day ticket costs US$250. These offer unlimited economy-class travel on all domestic Indian Airlines services. No stop may be visited more than once, except for transfer.

Youth Fare India is valid for 3 months, offering a 25% discount on the normal US Dollar fare. It is available to those aged 12-30 at the commencement of travel for journeys on economy/executive class of domestic air services and Indo-Nepal services.

South India Excursion is valid for 21 days from the first flight on Indian Airlines, offering economy-class (up to 30% off the normal US Dollar fare) travel between any or all of the south India stations of Madras, Trichi, Madurai, Trivandrum, Cochin, Coimbatore and Bangalore. For individual passengers, this fare must be combined with fares from the Maldives or Sri Lanka to India via Madras, Tiruchirapalli or Trivandrum.

India Wonderfares (North, South, East and West) cost US$250 and are valid for seven days, offering economy-class travel between main centres in India. No town may be visited more than once, except for transfer.

SEA/RIVER: There are ships from Calcutta, Vishakapatnam and Madras to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands, and from Cochin and Calicut to the Lakshadweep Islands. Services are often seasonal, and are generally suspended during the monsoon. One particularly attractive boat journey is the 'backwaters' excursion in the vicinity of Cochin in Kerala. Several local tours are available.

RAIL: The Indian internal railway system is the largest in Asia and the second-largest in the world. There are over 70,000km (43,500 miles) of track, over 7000 stations and over 11,000 locomotives, including 5000 steam engines. Its trains carry over 12 million passengers every day. The network covers much of the country and is a quintessential part of the fabric of India, as well as being relatively inexpensive. Express services link all the main cities and local services link most other parts of the country. Buses connect with trains to serve parts of the country not on the rail network. Children 5-11 years of age pay half price, children under five travel free. There are seven classes of travel: first-class air-conditioned, second-class air-conditioned, air-conditioned three tier, air-conditioned chair car, first-class sleeper and second-class. Major trains carry restaurant cars. Important routes run as follows: Mumbai? . Ahmadabad (five a day), Mumbai? . Allahabad (five a day), Mumbai? . Bangalore? . Mysore (two a day), Mumbai? . Calcutta (three a day), Mumbai? . Madras (three a day), Mumbai? . New Delhi (four a day), Mumbai? . Patna (five a day), Mumbai? . Pune (five a day); Calcutta? . Allahabad (three a day), Calcutta? . New Jalpaiguri? . Darjeeling (Toy Train, one a day), Calcutta? . Madras (three a day), Calcutta? . New Delhi (three a day); Delhi? . Agra (Taj Express, five a day), Delhi? . Ahmedabad (four a day), Delhi? . Allahabad (five a day), Delhi? . Jaipur (five a day), Delhi? . Madras (three a day); Madras? . Ernakulam? . Cochin (one a day).

Special fares: There is a special Indrail Pass consisting of a single non-transferable ticket which enables a visitor to travel on any train without restriction within the period of validity. It is sold only to foreign nationals and Indians residing abroad holding a valid passport, and replaces all other concessional tickets. Payment is accepted only in foreign currency (US Dollars or Sterling). Refunds can be given only if cancellation is made before the starting date. Children between 5-11 years of age are entitled to a Child Indrail Pass and pay roughly half the normal fare. Children under five years of age travel free. The normal free baggage allowances are 70kg air-conditioned class, 50kg first-class/AC Chair Car and 35kg second-class. Child Indrail Pass holders are entitled to half the above allowances. Holders of an Indrail Pass travelling on the Reydhani Express and Shatabdi Express are exempted from all reservation fees, sleeping car charges, express train meal charges and other costs. Validity: A ticket can be used within one year of its issue. Validity period is from the date of commencement of the first journey up to midnight of the date on which validity expires. The ticket must be used within one year of its issue. Advance reservation is essential, particularly on overnight journeys, arranged through travel agents. Reservations are on a first-come-first-served basis. For individuals or small groups a 2/3-month notice should suffice; during summer months a longer period is desirable to ensure reservations for the entire itinerary. Reservations can be made up to 360 days in advance. Indrail passes can be reserved in the UK from SD Enterprises. Tel: (0181) 903 3411 or 200 9549. Fax: (0181) 903 0392. The passes can also be purchased in India at all the main railway stations and authorised agents.

Palace on Wheels: Expensively decorated Edwardian-style luxury steam train with 14 coaches. Each coach consists of saloon, four sleeping compartments with upper and lower berth, bathroom, shower, toilet and small kitchen. Room service is available. There is a dining car, a bar, an observation car and a fully-equipped first-aid centre. Modern amenities include air-conditioning, four channel music and telephone intercom throughout the train. Tariff includes cost of travel; full catering; elephant, camel and boat rides; conducted sightseeing tours; and entrance fees.

Itinerary: Delhi? . Jaipur? . Chittaurgarh? . Udaipur? . Sawai Madhopur? . Jaisalmer? . Jodhpur? . Bharatpur? . Agra? . Delhi.

Bookings: Several tour operators/travel agents organise escorted tour facilities which includes the Palace on Wheels.

Also interesting is a journey on the Toy Train, a narrow-gauge rail line completed in 1881. Covering the route Calcutta? . New Jalpaiguri? . Darjeeling in 8 hours, it crosses over 500 bridges and offers ample opportunity for photos as the pace is leisurely. There is one daily train in either direction.

ROAD: Traffic drives on the left. An extensive network of bus services connects all parts of the country, and is particularly useful for the mountainous regions where there are no rail services. Details of routes may be obtained from the local tourist office. Tourist cars: There are a large number of chauffeur-driven tourist cars (some air-conditioned) available in the main tourist centres. These unmetered tourist cars run at a slightly higher rate than the ordinary taxis, and are approved by the GITO. Self-drive cars are not generally available. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is not a legal requirement but is recommended. A temporary licence to drive is available from local authorities on presentation of a valid UK driving licence.

URBAN: Taxis and auto rickshaws are available in large cities and fares should be charged by the kilometre. They do not always have meters but, where they do, visitors should insist on the meter being flagged in their presence. Fares change from time to time and therefore do not always conform to the reading on the meter, but drivers should always have a copy of the latest fare chart available for inspection. Public transport is often crowded and can be uncomfortable. For those interested, Mumbai Electric Supply & Transport (BEST) is one of the best public transport operators in India. A 16.45km (10-mile) underground railway was completed in Calcutta in 1995.

JOURNEY TIMES: The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Delhi to other major cities/towns in India.

Air Road Rail Sea

Mumbai 1.50 28.00 17.30a -

Calcutta 2.00 30.00 18.00b -

Madras 3.00 45.00 32.00 -

Hyd'bad 1.55 40.00 24.00 -

Agra 0.40 4.30 3.15 -

Jaipur 0.40 6.00 5.15 -

Jammu 1.50 14.45 16.00 -

Triv'rum 5.00c 62.00 60.00 -

Patna 1.30 22.00 16.00 -

Port Blair 5.05c - - d

a. Time by express (not daily); normal train takes 23 hours. b. Time by express (not daily); normal train takes 25 hours. c. Does not include stopover in Madras. d. Boat journey from Madras takes 3-4 days.

Note: Further information (including route maps, times of express trains and more detailed journey-time charts) may be found in the official India brochure, available free from the Government of India Tourist Office.



Afghanistan  Bangladesh  Bhutan  Brunei  Burma Cambodia  China  India  Indonesia  Japan   Korea  Laos   Malaysia  Mongolia  Nepal  Pakistan  Philippines Singapore  SriLanka Thailand   Tibet    Vietnam
All proceeds from donations, book, and banner sales go to support education for children in Northern Thailand
Privacy Policy | FAQ
copyright 1999-2002 asiarecipe.com
You can also donate to help us to continue to provide our services
Thanks for your support.
Clicking on these ads helps provide funds and scholarships to poor students at
Pongyang Elementary School in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
The children there thank you for your support.
And so does AsiaRecipe.com...
We know banners can be annoying at times,
but we hope you will appreciate the good your support does.
Thanks for your patience.
For World Peace